20 Jan Green Climber’s Home

I wake up in the mornings to the sound of birds trilling. Occasionally, there is a truck honking or a herd of goats or cows crashing through the brush. They stand in front of my tent for a moment and we stare each other down before they move on, checking the area for edible trash. The sun shines through the walls of my small tent, making my world a rose-colored haze. The mornings here are cool, and the high karst mountains block the direct sun until mid morning, but my tent is still shaded below a large bunch of bamboo and thorn trees. I walk down the dirt path past other tents to the river, where I carefully cross the bridge – several wooden boards nailed to an old fallen tree with a bit of old climbing rope to one side for balance. Past the bungalows and grazing cattle, I take off my shoes at the base of the restaurant steps and call out good morning to the other climbers.

This is how I have woken up every morning at the Green Climber’s Home for the past week. I have my own tent and only pay 25,000kip per night to camp. The restaurant keeps a notebook of all expenses that you pay at the end of your stay. Beer, water, and coffee you log yourself, and the staff tallies the food expense for you. There is a dinner special every night on a small chalk board hanging in the center of the room. A bulletin board on the wall has ‘for sale’ signs tacked up for climbing ropes and motorbikes from travelers ready to move on or go home, and flyers for yoga or meditation workshops. People are discussing climbing beta or playing cards or chess. Mister Ni is sneaking up behind people to make them jump and laugh.

My next posts may seem somewhat dull to those who are not climbers. Staying in the same place, doing similar things day after day. I’ve stopped taking so many photographs. I know that my friends and family want to know what exciting things are happening. But this trip was never about doing all of the things. It was never about showing the world or my family that I am an exciting person and I do cool things. I still do cool things (I think), but I am traveling for the simple joy of living with less. For doing the things I love. My greater goal is not specifically to see the world, but to learn how to live differently in it. Laos is not a check mark on my map.

Right now I am happy climbing and meeting other climbers from around the world. Enjoying this hobby I have come to love and honing my skills. Appreciating the different community and rock in a new place. There are few places like it. As soon as I walked into the restaurant at camp two, I was greeted by both new and familiar faces. I grabbed as many friends as I could for hugs and kisses and shouts of excitement. The following days have been a blur. Cool mornings, but brutally hot afternoons mean afternoon naps and fruit lassis, card games and beer. Climbing all day if you are working on mileage, or maybe just one route once or twice a day for those projecting something really hard. Constantly searching for a shady wall.

Sam and Graham were at GCH when o arrived, but left soon after. We had some good climbing and swimming days, and a celebration to send them on their way. They had a big bonfire at the roof area and we spent a drunken night playing music and singing, swigging sweet Lao whisky straight from the bottle (only 10,000kip/$1 per liter). Another day Charlie, Arna and I met some others down at the river for a day of swimming. Just a couple kilometer’s walk, the water was much clearer there – deep and blue. There are several caves to explore and watching other climbers at the roof is a popular evening activity.

As for me, I was feeling rather down about my climbing ability upon arrival. Charlie and I went to the Tree Lounge to start with some 5 level climbs. It started great, but a bouldery start on a 5c+ left me feeling disheartened about my abilities. After that I top roped some 6bs and a 6c and felt like I was not climbing very strong or efficiently. This was incredibly frustrating after feeling that I had improved on my lead climbing skills.

I had two rest days, one from a hangover and the next from a sore throat, but the next day I resolved to climb again, making sure I stayed within my current abilities. I went to the Swiss Oldies Wall with Chris and Tamara, which has all 5 and 6a level climbs, and led several routes. I felt so much better, and even found my first actual project! A short, somewhat powerful 6a+. I took my first lead whippers, falling into air while trying to get over the roof (and embarrassing myself by screaming each time). I made it, but am now resolved to climbing the route ‘clean’, or all the way through without falling or taking a rest on the rope. I went to another wall in the afternoon with Skiy and found another project, a 6a with more tufa pinches and side pulls than solid juggy holds. I was terrified on the way up and ‘took’, or rested on the rope, several times before making it to the top. The guy climbing next to me, Kevin, even talked me through my frustration and fear, which helped me finish the climb. But I will come again, and I will conquer!

It feels good to be excited about climbing again. To have a goal and a slight feeling of purpose. While GCH is a relaxing and fun haven, I wanted to feel I was improving myself in some way and I now feel I am getting to that point. I am not sure how long I will stay here or what will come of it, but so far I’m enjoying the hell out of it.

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